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Such a good question!
Have you ever met a dog who's afraid of vacuum?
Have you ever met a dog who hates cats?
Have you ever met a dog who's afraid of gun shots, lawn mowers, automatic garage doors, car rides, etc. etc.?
That's the dog that grew up with poor socialization or none at all.
For a breeder, it is not enough to mate two dogs, clean up some poop after the pups and then sell them in order to create a good dog.
For a new dog owner, it is not enough to buy a puppy, bring it home, feed it and watch the dog grow.
Socialization is the process during which the puppy develops relationships with other living beings in its environment. Two other important terms in a pup’s development are "habituation" and "localization". What is habituation? As all animals develop there are numerous stimuli (sounds, smells, sights and events) that when unfamiliar can lead to fear and anxiety. Habituation is the process whereby dogs get used to repeated stimuli, and stop reacting to them provided that there are no untoward consequences. What is localization? Localization is the process by which the puppy develops attachment to particular places.
Why are these important? To reduce the possibility of fearful responses as a puppy grows and matures, it is essential to expose young puppies to many stimuli (people, places and things) when they can most effectively socialize, localize, and habituate to these stimuli. Early handling and events that occur during the first 2 to 4 months of life, are critical factors in the social development of the dog. Dogs that receive insufficient exposure to people, other animals and new environments during this time may develop irreversible fears, leading to timidity or aggression. 
Puppies that are stimulated and handled from birth to five weeks of age are more confident, social, exploratory, faster maturing and better able to handle stress as they develop. Puppies obtained from a breeder or home where they have had frequent contact and interaction with people are likely to be more social and less fearful as they develop. Our pups' "appartment" is located in the very middle of our home, where we see them and they see us all the time.
There is a sensitive period in the development of most species when they develop social attachments with their own and other species, independent of punishment and rewards. In fact, both positive and negative events seem to accelerate socialization. The events that occur during this socialization period determines the puppy’s future social partners, as well as to what species it feels it belongs. By recognizing the critical time frame in which canine socialization develops, you can help to ensure a healthy social attachment to people and other animals, including other dogs.
The primary socialization period for dogs begins at 3 weeks of age and is diminishing by 12 weeks. Peak sensitivity is at 6 to 8 weeks. Beyond 12 weeks there is a tendency to act fearfully towards new people, animals and situations. Many young dogs will regress or become fearful again if they do not receive continued social interaction as they grow and develop. The 6-8 month period is another important time for socialization.
To help a healthy social relationship with other dogs throughout life, dogs should maintain their social contacts with their mother and littermates until 6 to 8 weeks of age. They should continue to have regular social interaction and play sessions with other dogs after it is taken into a new home. The puppy would likely do best if there was another dog in the new home, or if it had playmates in the neighborhood that it could interact with on a daily basis.
We socialize our puppies. We want them to become your best friends and good canine citizens, to behave well among people and other creatures, and not to become a burden to the new owners. It is hard to say, but there are plenty of cases when dogs are too agressive, too independent, or too fearful, and many of them end up abandoned. No one wants a dog who can't play with other dogs in a park, or attacks people, and bites kids. We do our best to give them the best "jump start", but you are the one who molds the puppy into a great companion, remember that!
While at our home, the puppies learn to exist among people and children, large dogs (like our St. Bernard Persy) and their brothers and sisters, they hear vacuum and carpet cleaner running, they see birds in the yard and learn good manners from their Mom, they hear pots and pans clanking in the kitchen, they hear TV and music, they get their ears checked and mouths open daily, they learn that it's ok to be brushed, that it's nice to have a belly rub... they learn something new everyday!
When you get your new baby home, keep socializing the pup! Play between his toes, stick your fingers in his mouth, look in his ears, make him stand still, check his teeth. Starting now! Continue to expose him to loud, startling noises. Continue to expose him to quick, startling motions. Practice taking his food bowl away while he is eating, pause, and give it back. Take things out of his mouth, pause, and give it back. Do NOT permit growling or possessiveness of food or toys. Not with you, not with other dogs, and especially not with children!
There should be little problem with a puppy that is less than 12 weeks of age developing healthy and lasting attachments to the people, sights and sounds in its new home. Your puppy is most likely to become fearful of stimuli that are not found in its day-to-day routine. Make a conscious effort to identify those people and situations that the puppy is not regularly exposed to. For example, if there are no children in the home, you might arrange regular play sessions with children. If you live in the country, make a few trips into the city, so that the puppy can be taken for walks on city streets, or through neighborhood plazas. Conversely, a puppy that grows up in the city might become fearful or aggressive toward farm animals that it was not exposed to during its early development.
Introduce your puppy to as many new people and situations as possible, beginning in its first three months of development. People in uniforms, babies, toddlers, the elderly, the physically challenged are just a few examples that might lead to fear and anxiety, unless there is sufficient early exposure. Similarly, car rides, elevators, stairs, or the noises of cars, trains, airplanes, or hot air balloons are some examples of events and experiences to which the puppy might be usefully exposed.
One way to facilitate the introduction of the puppy to new situations and people is to provide a reward such as a favorite toy or biscuit each time it is exposed to a new stimulus. Having a stranger offer a biscuit to the puppy will teach it to look forward to meeting people and discourage hand-shyness since the puppy will learn to associate new friends and an outstretched hand with something positive. Once the puppy has learned to sit on command, have each new friend ask it to sit before giving the biscuit. This teaches a proper greeting and will make the puppy less likely to jump up on people.
Be certain that the puppy has the opportunity to meet and receive treats from a wide variety of people of all ages, races, appearance and both sexes during the formative months. There will of course, be times when your puppy is in a new situation and you do not have treats. Be sure then to use a happy tone of voice and encourage your puppy.
If your puppy seems to panic, back off a little and try again later, rather than aggravating the fear. Never reassure the fearful dog as this might serve to reward the fearful behavior.
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