NO
 
INBREEDING!

Yes, of course, we do. We offer the following:

The Breeder guarantees that the Puppy is healthy at the moment of sale as certified by the licensed veterinarian and provided in the Health Certificate. The Breeder guarantees for 2 years from the date of sale that the Puppy is free of hereditary hip/elbow dysplasia, free of hereditary eye diseases and free of hereditary Subaortic Stenosis. The Breeder guarantees that the Puppy is free of such communicable diseases as parvovirus, leptospirosis, kennel cough, distemper and rabies at the moment of sale. The Breeder took all precautions to prevent rickets and vitamin deficiency in the Puppy.

Within 14 days of purchasing new Puppy, Buyer must take him/her to a licensed Veterinarian for an examination. Verification of Dog’s Identity filled out by licensed Veterinarian is required if any claims are made to Breeder. The form is attached to this Agreement. If the veterinarian determines, within 14 days of purchase, that the Puppy is clinically ill or has died from an injury sustained or illness that has been contracted on or before the date of sale, and if the veterinarian specifies that the Puppy was not suitable for sale, the Buyer has the following options:

                1.  Return the Puppy for a complete refund;

                2.  Return the Puppy for a replacement Puppy of equal value when available;

                3. Retain the Puppy and receive reimbursement for reasonable veterinary fees, not exceeding half of the  purchase price of the Puppy.

These options do not apply in the unlikely event of a Breeder, who has provided a health certificate issued by a veterinarian, discloses in writing at the time of sale the health problem, for which the Buyer later seeks to return the Puppy or collect damages.

If, within 14 days of purchase, a licensed veterinarian determines that the Puppy has a congenital or hereditary defect, which adversely affects the Puppy’s health, or, that the Puppy died from a congenital or hereditary defect, Buyer has the same options as outlined above. These options do not apply in the event when the Breeder discloses in writing at the time of sale the problem, for which the Buyer later seeks to return the Puppy or collect damages.  

THE BREEDER DOES NOT WARRANTY THE FOLLOWING on any Puppy sold: 

1.       Entropian, Ectropian, and minor allergies;

2.       Any diseases that develop due to contamination that happened after the date of sale,

3.       Any diseases that develop after the date of sale due to improper diet, improper physical activities, injuries, provided or caused by Buyer or while the Puppy is in his possession.

4.       Behavioral problems or personality traits not associated with breed temperament;

5.       Behavioral problems or personality traits that develop due to improper training or lack of it, provided or caused by Buyer.

6.       Conditions not set out herein. 

Suitable Evidence. Along with medical records and other suitable evidence required by New york pet law, filled and signed by licensed Veterinarian, Verification of puppy’s Identification is required. Without such Verification, Breeder will not honor any claims/pretensions from buyer.

If the Puppy is severely crippled by any of the guaranteed conditions and if contract conditions have been adhered to and suitable evidence is produced, the Puppy may be returned to the Breeder at the Buyer's expense with the Registration papers signed over to the Breeder. A Puppy of the same sex and quality, selected by the Breeder, will be guaranteed to the Buyer from another litter, though not necessarily from the same bitch nor from the next litter due to arrive. The Breeder reserves the right to refund the Buyer his original price of the Puppy including the deposit should the Breeder decide not to place another Puppy with the Buyer. 

Alternatively, where the Buyer chooses to keep the said crippled Puppy, the Breeder shall in its considerations, reimburse the Buyer an amount determined by the Breeder in line with the condition and effects on the Puppy's life. In any case, this amount shall not exceed, in total and in combination for all conditions, a lifetime maximum of one half the purchase price of the Puppy. The Breeder may request that the Buyer obtains further opinions in the case of x-rays, eye and/or heart examinations from OFA and CERF. Obtaining additional opinions will be the responsibility of the Buyer. The Breeder may request to have any reports or x-rays mailed or shipped to the Breeder's veterinarian. Under no circumstances will THE BREEDER be responsible for the cost of any veterinarian bills for any reason whatsoever, nor will THE BREEDER be responsible for the cost of surgery for any reason whatsoever.   

It is up to you. I groom my dogs myself. Besides normal grooming (nails, teeth, ears, anal glands, bath, brush, blow dry), I also trim dogs' fur - paws, around genitalia, neck above the collar line, head, and even tail. I like them looking nice and pretty, even though it cuts back on the length of their hair. 

You can find an awesome series of Golden Retriever grooming in New Owners Section. It looks like a big job at the beginning, but with time you'll progress and will be able to do it fairly fast and very well.

Just follow the instruction. You will need to confirm your request by clicking on the link in confirmation email, and it will redirect you to confirmation page where you will be able to download Puppy Questionnaire. It’s a short series of questions that will help us understand if you are suitable to have one of our puppies.  Don’t get discouraged – it’s not an investigation of any sort, but we want to make sure a puppy coming into your life won’t make it miserable or inconvenient, because we want everyone (repeat – everyone – you, the puppy, and us) to be totally happy with the process and the outcome. We want our babies to find good homes and great families to share their lives with. Sometimes people completely forget about things like allergies, landlord permissions, fences, time available to spend at home with the puppy, etc. etc. We take the guess work out of the process.

You must return that Questionnaire to us, and, if you are approved, you will receive Deposit Agreement, and be on our Waiting List.

Yes, of course.

Please CLICK HERE 

Those who adopt our puppies are more concerned about their vet bills (which run much higher many times than the cost of the puppy) and the heart break of caring for an unhealthy Golden Retriever.

We will start showing the puppies to the public after they turn 6 weeks. Before that, you will see pictures /videos of each puppy on our website and plenty of additional info on each and every one of them, including weight, coat, personality, etc. The first inoculation will be given to the litter at 6 weeks, and prior to that, the puppies are highly susceptible to many fatal infectious diseases. I will not risk puppies’ lives.

Under certain circumstances, I may consider showing the puppies prior to 6 weeks, but no physical contact to be made with ANY animals in the house. On the day of visit, please, do not visit any other kennels and do not touch any dogs. If you pick a puppy before the release day (by pictures, etc.), there will be NO VISITS to come and "look how the little guy is doing", no visiting the puppy before you come to pick him/her up on the release day. I will be sending you new pictures and videos of your baby every week, I promise. I understand that it may sound a little discouraging, but it makes sense.

The reason is the same: even though given the first shot, they are still not immune – the shot at the age of 6 weeks is just the first one in a series of vaccination. I am not saying that you'll be buying a "cat in a sack"! I want you to know what puppy you are getting from the get-go. I don't want any refunds, returns, complains! You don't want to get refunds, to return the pup, or complain! Who wants this? Everyone wants nice and smooth process! If we work together, everyone will be satisfied!

Think about it: I don't need a "bad breeder" reputation as I am expending my breeding program and starting to show my dogs, and most of all - I want everyone to be happy - you, puppy, me! So please, be reasonable! Back in 2000, when I was 19 and lived with my parents, my Mom lost the entire litter of doberman puppies due to everyone coming in, petting the kids, etc. etc. As a result of such permissiveness, the kids caught parvovirus. Never mind how much money we spent trying to save the babies - we did shots at home almost every four hours, IVs at the vets, special diet, etc. etc. But nothing helped! It was horrifying to see the puppies so sick and miserable. One of the pups even had his intestines out... It was absolutely horrible... We spent nights up with them, trying to nurture them back to life, but all the puppies eventually died. That was a horrifying experience. I don't want to risk it.

When the time will come to pick up the puppy, based on the information you’ve provided to me, I definately will suggest a puppy out of the entire litter that fits your expectations. Some puppies are very active, some puppies are more mellow, some love playing nice, some love playing rough, some are chewers, some are barkers, some think they are “lap dogs”, some prefer to roam around on their own – they all have different personalities, just like humans. It will be up to you to decide which puppy you are taking, but I hope you will go with my opinion since I will be continuously observing them since their birth.

We just welcomed the Santorini Litter in June 2010. Next litter is planned for spring 2011 out of Samira, Leia's daughter, considering that she passes all her health checks and finishes off her training courses.

We accept US checks and cash. Your deposit will be cashed right away, and will go towards the purchase price of the puppy. Deposits are non-refundable and non-transferable to another litter/puppy.

Remaining balance should be submitted no later than one week prior to the release date, and must be cleared by the bank before you can pick up your puppy. Or, you can always go with the cash on the release day.

When puppies are learning to eat solid food, we start them with Innova Large Breed Puppy Beef & Barley Stew, which offers the farm-fresh ingredients your puppy loves – like beef, barley, and whole fruits and vegetables. This unique formula provides the nutrition a growing puppy needs, but in balanced proportions to control his growth rate. In addition, DHA and EPA have been included for brain and eye development. Formulated specially for large and giant breed puppies, made with healthful ingredients for all five food groups, includes nutrients from fresh fruits and vegetables, and offers DHA and EPA to help with neurological and retinal development. Long story short - the food is great! 

Ingredients: Beef, Beef Broth, Lamb Broth, Barley, Dried Egg Whites, Potato Starch, Peas, Cranberries, etc. 

When Puppies are old enough to eat dry food, we gradually get them on Innova Large Breed Puppy Dry Food.
Large breed puppies have a genetic tendency to grow rapidly. Controlling growth rate helps normal development of bones and joints which is particularly important from about eight weeks of age, when a puppy is weaned, to two years of age. The tendency to overfeed and give supplements (such as calcium) to large breed puppies is common but should be avoided as it can potentially cause abnormal skeletal development. Instead, a food specially formulated to provide your puppy with the right balance of nutrients for optimum skeletal development should be selected.

Innova Large Breed Puppy Food contains 6% fewer calories than regular Innova Puppy Food and includes balanced levels of calcium and phosphorus. Innova Large Breed Puppy Food also has less protein and is balanced with the appropriate mineral content for optimal skeletal development. Innova Large Breed Puppy Food also contains a bit more fiber than regular Innova Puppy food to prevent overfeeding. Innova Large Breed Puppy Food provides complete and balanced nutrition.

Formulated specially for large and giant breed puppies, made with healthful ingredients from all five food groups, includes nutrients from fresh fruits and vegetables, preserved with Vitamin E, contains a source of live naturally-occurring microorganisms normally found in a healthy digestive tract, offers DHA and EPA to help with neurological and retinal development, balanced calcium and phosphorus levels.

Ingredients: Turkey, Chicken, Chicken Meal, Barley, Brown Rice, Rice, Potatoes, Chicken Fat, Pea Fiber, Natural Flavors, Flaxseed, Apples, Sunflower Oil, Pumpkin, Carrots, Potassium Chloride, Sea Salt, Herring Oil, Cottage Cheese, Alfalfa Sprouts, Dried Chicory Root, Direct-Fed Microbials, Lecithin, Rosemary Extract, Vitamins/Minerals.

You will receive a 6.6 lbs bag of Innova Large Breed Puppy Dry Food in your Pappy Package. You can switch your dog to any food you want, but before you do - click here to read a very useful information! For a current list of dog food recalled by FDA, please, click here.

The amount of immunity the puppies have to infectious disease is directly related to the immunity of their mothers. The mother’s immunity is passed on to the puppies through her first milk or colostrum. Leia is kept up to date on all shots (including Kennel Cough). And of course, the pups will get Galaxy DA2PPvL vaccine at the age of 6 weeks. DA2PPvL vaccine protects against Canine Distemper, Adenovirus type 2, Parainfluenza, Parvovirus and Leptospirosis. After the initial vaccination, the same shot will be given at 8 weeks, and then should be repeated in 2 to 4 weeks untill the dog is 12 weeks old. You will receive your puppy's vaccination records with all the information for your vet.

You must vaccinate your puppy against RABIES at the age of 12 weeks at a veterinarian office. It is illegal in the states of AK, AL, AR, CA, CT, GA, HI, ID, IL, IN, KS, MD, ME, MN, MO, MS, MT, NC, ND, NE, NJ, NM, NV, NY, OR, RI, SC, TN, TX, UT, WA, WV and WY to vaccinate against rabies yourself. You must do it at a licensed veterinarian clinic. 

Always stay up-to-date on vaccination!

Yes, it is. Let's say, your puppy is running around the house with your favorite shirt in his mouth.

First, there's a lesson for you - do not leave things around until you can "trust" the puppy.

Second, pulling things will only trigger grabbing reflex and it will turn into a pull contest.

Third, if you play that game on regular basis, you can deform puppies bite (placement of teeth and formation of jaws). Save those games for later, especially if you bought a show-quality puppy and plan to show him.

Call the pup, open his mouth (lightly press with two fingers on their jaw muscles) and take the object out.

• Clean up and wash the floors;
• Check and repair (if needed) the fence around your property;
• Take all wires, cables, etc. off the floor, out of puppy's reach - THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!
• Set up the dog bed (crate);
• Set up the feeding place;
• Pick a call name for the puppy;
• Get an identification tag made in advance for your puppy with your name, phone number, address, and possibly email address. It doesn't need to have puppy’s name on it (as the matter of fact - do not put your dog's name on the tag, I am a firm believer to that). Get a small jingle bell and a split ring to attach the tag and bell to the pup’s collar. The jingle bell will help you keep up with the puppy in the house, and the split ring forms a more secure attachment than an “S” hook, making it less likely the bell will be lost;
• Work out a schedule for your puppy (feeding time, walk time, play time). Decide which household members will do which care tasks.  

Here's a good shopping list. Consider using child gates in your home depending on your confinement plan.

• BOWLS: Two stainless steel bowls - 2 qt. They should be pretty heavy, so the pup can't move them. Why ot plastic? First they are light in weight, second - your pup will probably chew it up. You should get the bowls with an adjustable stand. It will form nice straight back, great posture and strong, non-deformed paws. 
• DOG FOOD: This should be mostly dry food. Larger dogs are often not feed canned food. Avoid getting the semi-moist foods, as they are low on nutrition. Start your pup with a good Large Breed Puppy Food. Here a guide for you - click here (opens in a new window).
• LEASH: nylon or leather, 6' (retractable or "Flexi"-style leashes are suitable after 6 mos.)
• COLLAR, for right now - nylon, adjustable; ½" wide (about 10-16" long) or ¾" wide (about 12-20" long), for later I highly recommend leather collar; your puppy will come with a collar, but of course, you can change it if you want to. One more thing: frequently check on your puppy's collar - they grow very fast. You should be able to put your thumb between the collar and the dog's neck easily. Too little space - too snug, adjust the collar, or buy a new one. Too much space - too lose, adjust the collar or buy a new one.
• TOYS & TREATS:
  • OK: rubber toys, tennis or hard rubber balls 
  • OK: rawhide (but no knotted bones), puppy biscuit/bones, sterilized-natural beef bones, knuckles, pig ears
  • NO: stuffed animals for human kind kids - the dogs can chew through and you will end up in a hospital with stuffing in your dog's stomach, this can be fatal. Nylabone items, Greenies bones, chew-hooves.
• CRATE (cage) or DOG BED - whichever you want to use. Crate is highly-recommended. Buy an adult dog size crate, which for a Golden Retriever would be 23'' W x 28'' H x 37'' D. 
  • Wire crate if you will use crate; 
  • Vari-Kennel (plastic style) if applicable for auto, airplane transport;
• GROOMING
  • Coat
    • Shampoo: Bio-Groom Protein & Lanolin shampoo - bathe when dirty or about twice per month
    • Brush: pin-brush (metal pin bristles); brush daily, slicker-brush.
    • Comb: metal, about 7.5"
    • Scissors: ball-tipped, about 7" (trimming feet); Thinning shears: about 6 ½" (trimming ears, tail)
  • Nails
    • Nail clippers (non guillotine-type) or nail grinder (battery powered) - trim twice per month
    • Kwik-stop (stops bleeding from clipped nails, other minor cuts)
  • Ears
    • Oticalm cleaning solution (or make your own: equal parts rubbing alcohol, water, vinegar) - clean weekly
    • Cotton balls or pads
  • Teeth (start maintenance after adult teeth are in - about 5 mos. of age)
    • Adult (human) soft toothbrush
    • Nolvadent brushing solution
    • Metal tooth scaling tool
• Adviced Items: child gate.

Tips for Successful Feeding and Development:

• Pour some warm (never hot) water over food and let soak a minute or two before feeding only to aid in digestion and reduce risk of bloat. Stainless steel bowls are best for dog dishes. Make fresh water available throughout the day (or to drink at least three times per day while housebreaking).
• Feed three times per day until 16 weeks to allow for best digestibility. If three times/day just won't work with your schedule, you can divide the Total Daily Feeding into two (feed only twice per day). Don't allow your puppy to choice or free feed-- they'll become nibblers and will never become accustomed to eating a full meal when served, even as adults. It addition to that, the one who controls food is the leader. Is it you or your dog? 
• Feed a high quality dry "puppy" or "growth" formula food (it usually has chicken, lamb/rice or turkey/barley as the primary ingredients), available from feed stores or local pet superstores such as Petsmart or Pet Depot. If you wish to change foods, blend in your different food over time.
• From 16 weeks on, the 3 1/2 - 4 cups should be an approximate daily maintenance amount: look for instructions on the back of your dog food bag. Ideally, this should be split in two, feeding half in morning and the other half in the evening. If two times a day cannot be arranged, feeding the total amount once per day is okay for puppies older then 1 year old. You can buy an automatic feeder at any petstore. Switch from puppy (growth) formulations to normal/adult formulations after reaching about 12-24 mos. of age - it depends on the brand of food you're using. Blend this transition in from puppy to adult formulations.
• Keep in mind the goal during puppy feeding (from 8 to 16 weeks) is to provide what the puppy needs during this very rapid growth period, without great surges. Changes in, or additions to a puppy's diet should be made very gradually. Use dog treats (such as milk bones) sparingly and very rarely table scraps even as an adult. The puppy needs twice an adult's maintenance requirement of energy/nutrients until they reach about 1/2 their mature weight.
• Keep the puppy trim, not too lean. Be careful not to overfeed, as this can lead to obesity and related problems, or overly rapid growth. The spine should not be readily felt; the ribs should be covered only with a slight layer of fat such that they are not readily seen. Roly-poly tubs of lard are not healthy puppies!

Crate training... this method is undoubtedly the most effective means to "housebreak" your puppy - that is to train them in learning to go outside to do their "business"-- and not in the house.

Buy that plastic airline-style crate (size "400" or Large) or a wire crate. This will start off as your puppy's "home". Place it in an appropriate place in your home: never near a source of heat, cold or drafts, in a quiet area (kitchen, bathroom, foyer are bad examples). 

The daily routine can start where your puppy is in their crate for no more than about 3 hours during the daytime (8 hours at night is fine). Upon letting the puppy out, proceed directly outside, do not stop to play. Take him or her to the same spot in the yard each time. The same spot is important as it is easier for them to remember they're outside for a purpose. Once they're done, praise them, play with them, throw a ball - whatever you wish. You should bring the puppy outside first thing in the morning (don't wait until after you had coffee, took a shower, etc., or you're going to get a surprise!), after  puppy's food and drink, after playtime, and when you see that the puppy is walking in circles and sniffing the floor, and before night. Don't worry, it'll get much better later when your dog is an adult. 

After your puppy has learned the drill, it is not uncommon for owners to simply remove the door to the crate and the crate becomes your dog's bed at night.

Sure! Honestly, I do not see the necessity of this, because we will be going to the veterinarian on our own at 3 days and 7 weeks, and you will get a Health Certificate from the clinic in your Puppy Package, but if you wish - we could do that! We will have to arrange the time that is convenient for both of you and me (hoefully, it'll be convenient for the puppy as well), and I will go with you and the puppy. The "extra" vet check is on you, though.

Limited Registration means that the dog is registered but no litters produced by that dog are eligible for registration.

Chapter 3, Section 4A of the AKC's Rules Applying to Registration and Discipline states the following: "Limited Registration may be requested for a dog when application for individual registration of the dog is submitted, provided the application, together with a request for such limitation, is filed by the owner(s) of the litter at birth.

No offspring of a dog for which Limited Registration has been granted is eligible for registration. Each registration certificate for such dog shall carry notice of the limitation, and the limitation shall continue, regardless of any change of ownership, unless and until the owners of the litter at birth shall apply to AKC for removal of the limitation."

A dog registered with an AKC Limited Registration shall be ineligible to be entered in a breed competition in a licensed or member dog show. It is eligible, however, to be entered in any other licensed or member event. These events include: Obedience, Tracking, Field Trials, Hunting Tests, Herding, Lure Coursing, Agility and Earthdog.

Limited Registration is determined by the litter owners. The litter owners check the Limited box on the AKC Dog Registration Application. Limited Registration certificates are white with an orange border; the Full Registration certificate is white with a purple border.

Limited Registration can be changed to Full Registration only by the litter owners. The litter owners will need to obtain the Application to Revoke Limited Status. That form will then need to be completed and sent to AKC Raleigh address with the processing fee. After processing, AKC will send a Full Registration certificate to the dog's owner.

All our puppies by default are sold with Limited AKC registration. You also have an option to buy a puppy on Limited Registration with the ability to upgrade to the Full AKC Registration (unless otherwise specified) when ALL of the following conditions are met:

No sound breeder will ever breed a dog that will produce puppies with attributes, which make the offsprings unwanted: weak puppies, sick puppies, puppies with disqualifying features. Puppies like that are unsellable/unadoptable, and end up in shelters, pet stores, abandoned, abused or euthanized.

By the time your dog reaches the above mention age, you will know for sure if you want to show/breed the dog. However, I would highly recommend to decide that before the dog turns one year old. This way you will be able to spay/neuter the dog before troubles come: unplanned pregnancies, run-away males, etc. etc. Meanwhile, take care of your new puppy and raise it into a beautiful, healthy and solid adult. You will see no hesitation from us to revoke your puppy's Limited Registration when the above conditions met.

WRONG. It is our business. However, do not confuse this with control of any sort. Your dog is your dog, but they are also our "children" and we get attached to each and every puppy and we are not indifferent to their fate. We will be happy if your puppy becomes a Champion, we will cheer for the puppy that turned out to be a great hunter, we will be sad to hear if your puppy gets sick, we will be devastated when your dog leaves this world of old age. We want to see pictures, share experience and concerns. We want to know how you guys are doing!

Second reason: if at any time you will become unable to keep the dog due to some drastic circumstances, we will take it and find your doggy a new home. You are prohibited to sell the dog through/to any pet store or surrender the dog to any shelter, lab, research facility, etc.

If you have no intention to keep in touch - an occasional email with a couple of pictures! - please find a different breeder.

I suggest that you pick up your puppy no later than Friday of the release week. Bring the children - we'll take a picture of you and your new family member!

If you are unable to pick up your puppy Friday-Sunday of the release week, you should let us know ahead of time. We will take care of your puppy until you can pick it up (no longer than 3 days). If you fail to pick up your puppy after three days, we reserve the right to refuse this sale, keep the deposit, and return the remaining amount of the purchase price to you.

Why Friday? The weekend is coming and you will be able to spend more time with your new family member. Not only it will positively affect your relationship with a new baby, but it will also give you plenty of time to help puppy adjust to the new home. Most puppies "cry" for the first couple of nights, because they feel lonely and Mommy is not there anymore. Would you prefer to get up several times during first night knowing you have to go to work at 7 AM? I don't think so either. Let's make Puppy Arrival a pleasant experience, that will be easy for everyone: you, your family, and your new best friend.

All payments must be cleared by the bank before you can pick up your puppy.

P.S. In order to reduce stress, we include a chew toy or a small blanket with Leia’s scent in the Puppy Package. The puppy is much calmer when he feels Mom’s presence.

Deposits are non-refundable and non-transferable because when you place a deposit, the puppy of your choice is no longer available to other prospective owners.  As you want a serious breeder, we want only serious inquiries. The deposit, however, goes towards the purchase price of the puppy. It is a reservation procedure, and you are not losing your money if you buy the puppy.

Deposits may vary in amount based on the purchase price of your puppy. We accept checks and cash, and sometimes Paypal. Of course, you will receive a receipt. Deposit goes towards the purchase price of the puppy, but remember that all deposits are non-refundable and non-transferable and are required to hold your puppy. If you decide you don't want or can't afford the puppy you have placed your deposit on, then you forfeit your deposit, and cannot transfer the deposit to another litter/puppy. Deposits are placed in order to secure the puppy of your choice from being purchased by another buyer. Without a deposit someone else can buy the puppy of your choice. 

Deposits will be cashed right away. All payments must be cleared by the bank (unless you're paying cash) before you can pick up your puppy. Paypal payments: please add 3.2% to the deposit amount (Paypal charges us to receive money).

First of all, you should get on our Waiting List (please see left column of the website). When I receive your request, I will email you back  with Puppy Questionnaire to find out what qualifies you to have one of our puppies and what qualities you are looking for in a dog, or, judging by some of your answers, I will get an idea of what kind of dog you want, and we’ll go from there.

When the puppies arrive, you will be one of the first families to hear the happy announcement. Once you decide which puppy is right for you and that you definitely want a particular puppy, I will ask that you place a deposit to reserve your future puppy. This reservation guarantees that when the puppy is old enough, you will get the puppy you have chosen. We ask for a deposit so that we are guaranteed that you are serious about wanting a specific puppy. The deposit is NON-REFUNDABLE and we cannot guarantee a puppy without a deposit.

We do our best to assure that every puppy we produce is as healthy as possible. We provide all of our dogs with the best food, care and medical attention we possibly can. We do appropriate health checks. We screen our own dogs and sires used in breeding programs for general and breed-specific health concerns that might be hereditary and we do not breed dogs if they have been proven to produce specific hereditary defects or other health issues. We firmly believe that the puppies we produce are as healthy as we can possibly make them. Leia has successfully passed OFA hips, elbows, heart and CERF eyes examinations. Sires are carefully considered  and chosen and have all above-mentioned examinations done and passed. For instance, for the entire Leia's life, (that is almost 4 years), besides routine check-ups and vaccination visits to our vet, we went to the doctors once: Leia had a allergy on something that was blooming in the neighborhood that made the whites of her eyes reddish. The eye drops took care of that. That was it. 

Please keep in mind when looking for a puppy, that breeding dogs is not like manufacturing parts or products on an assembly line. There are no guarantees that ANY dog will be perfectly healthy its entire life and will die of old age after 15 years of frolicking through sunlit, fragrant meadows. Dogs are living, breathing creatures and as such are subject to the laws of nature. No breeder has complete control or understanding of the multitude of genetic variables present within a particular dog or dogs. Nor can a breeder predict with any level of accuracy what impact some of these genetic variables and other natural or environmental factors may have on a particular dog or litter. However, having the parents passed careful health examination such as mentioned-above, dramatically increases puppy's chances of not being crippled in the older age, having no inherited heart murmurs, or turning blind at some point. 

Every puppy that a breeder produces is at some risk for some health issues due to sometimes occurring birth defects, environmental factors, genetic mutations or anomalies and the influence of hidden genes within each breeding dog. It is not possible for anyone to eliminate the majority of these risk factors. Even we, humans, with our incredible research in genetic engineering, leaps in medical technology and advancements in human prenatal care cannot be assured that every baby born will be perfectly formed, will never be diagnosed with a serious disease or illness, or will never suffer from some type of serious health issue. These are the realities of life and an inescapable truth. 

However, while we must accept that luck and chance play some role in the big scheme of things, let me explain what responsible breeders do to ensure that each puppy has the best chance of living a long and healthy life. Responsible breeders learn to try to stack the deck in their favor. A good breeder can learn to produce more consistently healthy puppies by studying their breed's genetic history, making a serious effort to minimize the risk factors for each litter they produce, having their breeding dogs health tested, carefully matching breeding couples and by providing the best food and care they possibly can to the dogs. This is what we try to do with our canines. 

How a breeder deals with these issues will divide the responsible breeders from the riff-raff. A really good breeder will meet challenges and disappointments head-on, will learn from these experiences and will work to overcome and defeat these set-backs. A poor breeder will ignore health problems within their kennel, may try to hide or dispose of these animals to unsuspecting buyers and will often and loudly proclaim that they have NO health problems within their own dogs. (It's easy to claim your dogs have no health issues when you don't do health testing to prove this one way or another!)

Yes, we do when it is necessary. I'd rather see you come and pick up your puppy, but sometimes it just makes no sense. International shipping can also be arranged.

We use Delta Airlines with their Pet First Service. Shipping within USA is 350 USD with everything included for the trip: airline approved kennel, kennel liners, 2-compartment food bowl with ice in one of the compartments, vet interstate health certificate and food. Shipping is from Elmira-Corning Regional Airport of New York, and increases with the age of a puppy because the puppy grows and needs bigger kennel to fly. The earliest the puppy can fly is 8 weeks. Puppy Package will come as a parcel separately. 

We have shipped puppies before, our kids live in Wyoming, Montana, Colorado and Rhode Island, and I must tell you that kids receive awesome treatment while traveling. No, puppies do not travel in a cold cargo compartment, on the contrary to some people's belief. Airplanes have a separate live animals area that is climate-controlled and have air (the luggage area where bags are is NOT climate-controlled and have no oxygen circulating). I freeze water in a food bowl, so your puppy won't be thirsty while traveling because ice melts gradually and this way puppy kept hydrated. The bottom is lined with a training pad to absorb liquids and on top of that we usually put a medium-thickness towel for softness. 

While we try to select direct flights for our puppies, sometimes they need to switch planes. During plane-switch, they are taken out of the cage, fed, given water, and that's usually when the airport worker calls you to say that your baby is fine and how cute the puppy is!  

Our Puppy Package is quite extensive and thought-through. We want you to be happy with your new family member, and we want to make puppy's transition to his new house even happier. We've collected everything we think you should receive from us for your baby for this wonderful and special new beginning.

The Puppy Package includes the following:

     1.   AKC registration papers,
     2.   AKC Litter Pedigree,
     3.   Copy of signed by both parties Sale Contract, copy of Spay/Neuter Agreement, Copy of Sire's Pedigree with titles, scores, etc.,
     4.   NY Pet Law forms,
     5.   Health & ID Passport (incl. vaccination records & vaccination schedule),
     6.   Health certificate,
     7.   Microchip Information and AKC CAR enrollment form,
     8.   2-year genetic health warranty,
     9.   Dewclaw removal,
     10. Several sets of deworming,
     11. Puppy shots,
     12. Health examination,
     13. Microchipping,
     14. Innova Large Breed Puppy Dog Food Package (6.6 lbs),
     15. A CD with photos of your puppy since birth to release date,
     16. A book about Golden Retrievers of our choice (grooming, training, etc.),
     17. A set of brochures on important subjects (i.e. did you know raisins & grapes can cause kidney failure in dogs?),
     18. Lifetime email and/or phone support,

and all the careful considerations, planning, researching, nurturing, socializing and raising of your puppy before it enters your world.

In order to keep track of our offsprings, we do name our puppies. When you receive your AKC registration papers, the name is printed in. However, you are the one who's calling the game! Let me explain.

We identify every litter.

Litter 2010 is identified as the Santorini  Litter. Leia's Litters are marked as Fleuri Jardin (fr.- "flowering garden").

Let's say, you want to call your puppy Lizzy.

This is what we can offer you:

Elizabeth Santorini Fleuri Jardin

Liz Santorini Fleuri Jardin

Eliza Santorini Fleuri Jardin

By the time you pick up your puppy, together - you and me - we will come up with a beautiful name for your pup's official AKC name. 

No puppy leaves before the first shots and before being able to eat very well on its own. Usually these requirements are met when a pup is 7 weeks old.

If you get your puppy before the age of 7 weeks, the animal develops unhealthy dependency on humans. When you get a puppy older than 12 weeks, it has no dependency on humans whatsoever, he doesn't feel "attached" to you and have way too much independence. Age of 7 to 12 weeks is the best age to get a puppy and develop a healthy "master" - "dog" connection. 

That you should ask yourself, not me! I am sure you could, but this will be twice as much mess, time, training, and expense. An important part of adopting a  Golden is the continuing financial responsibility. Routine veterinary care and food range from 300 to 1200 USD per year for one dog that has no health issues. Yearly shots, heartworm preventative, flea/tick treatment throughout the summer, grooming and feeding a premium food add up quickly. This does not include any emergency medical treatments or surgeries that a dog may need at some point in his/her life. Many breeders will not sell two puppies a the same time, worrying that the arrangement is not in the puppy’s best interest. Some recommend that you consider a puppy and then an older rescue dog or that you wait until your puppy is at least 6 months old before getting another.

This notion is an old and outdated myth. The best hunting dog you will ever get will be happiest when he has bonded closely to you and is living inside your home as a well loved pet. Again, Goldens are miserable when left alone for long periods of time. Goldens, when sharing the home with their family, will bond with their owners and work hard to please them in the home and the field.

"Just a pet" encompasses an awful lot! You want your pet to be healthy - no crippling hip problems, no potentially fatal heart defects, no chronic skin and ear problems, and most of all - you want that Golden temperament that you've heard so much about! There are no solid guarantees in dog breeding, but as with most other things, a person's skills improve with experience and study. A responsible breeder knows that breeding means much more than putting two intact dogs together and waiting 8-9 weeks for puppies. It involves carefully researching pedigrees, screening for defects, proper care of the dam (mother) while she's pregnant and skillful handling of the new puppies during the critical first 8 weeks of life, not to mention taking care of the Dam from childhood to adulthood. That is a whole lot of work right there!

You won't believe how many hours a good breeder spends with the Dam and the puppies, especially for the first couple of weeks! You think it's all fluff -puff, and cutsy puppies running around, and all the breeder has to do is just sit around and watch them nurse? Think again! I usually have my alarm set for about 4 AM so I can get up and check on the babies: they are so fragile, I don't want anything to happen to them! Sometimes even the pig-rail doesn't save a puppy, because the Dam just flops on top of a baby! It is a stressful and nerve-wracking period! It's a huge responsibility! Puppies pee and poop, make a mess when they eat, chew things up and bark at night when they decide to play a little. They need every piece of mess cleaned up right away, they need to be fed, rested and taken care of. Dam needs to be comforted and  in good health. Et cetera, et cetera! The thing is that even if it is a little overwhelming sometimes, a good breeder loves doing it! Messes and stress are just "the nature of the beast"!

Finding a responsible breeder who has become a student of the breed and has the level of knowledge necessary to make good decisions significantly raises your chances of finding the healthy, stable pet you are looking for. As far as expense, you are adding a new member to your family for the next 12-15 years. Now is not the time to penny pinch! The breeder will have considerable expense involved in the selection, raising, and screening of the dogs. A pet store often costs as much as a well-bred one and a "bargain" puppy is just what it is - "a bargain puppy". You can't buy a Mercedes for a price of Chevy. 

You need to make an informed decision. These three posts will help you make one:

We Just Want a Pet

We Just Want a Pet II

L&M Litter Genetics 

Every dog and their owner should attend obedience classes. Goldens are large dogs and because they get over excited when they greet guests, they need to know their basic commands such as heel, sit, stay, and come. Obedience classes are a great bonding experience for you and your Golden Retriever.

Golden Retrievers are family dogs. They live for their family and have great need in people, so they are poorly suited to live just in a backyard. When they are bored and stressed, they develop behavior problems, such as digging, barking, and become destructive. We will not sell you a puppy if you're planning to keep it outside at all times.

Try switching the food, use medicated shampoo and a high potency essential fatty acid dietary supplement for the skin & coat. 

Not typically, but they can if they are bored. If your dog barks for no reason, purchase a training collar - 3 days and your dogs will control his/her barking.

Golden Retrievers are usually physically mature by 2 years of age. Mentally, it depends on the dog, but usually not before 3 years of age.

First and foremost, children need to be taught how to interact with a dog and Goldens are no exception. Each year many children are victims of dog bites (Golden Retrievers are biters # 1 in the USA - surprise, surprise!) and this can be due to ongoing mistreatment of the dog by children or because the dog and family were not properly matched by the breeder or rescue. A responsible breeder or rescue organization will make sure that any puppy they place with children is temperamentally suited for an active family.

Many Goldens become homeless due to the fact that an adult has added a Golden to the family for the wrong reasons:

• As a gift to a child with the expectation that the child will be the primary caretaker.
• To play with the children and keep them occupied, giving the adults more free time, without plans to supervise the interactions.
• Stocking stuffers, Easter Puppies, etc. etc.

Adding a Golden Retriever to the family can be wonderful, but adults must understand the responsibilities that are involved. Feeding, grooming, exercising, obedience lessons, etc. are the entire family’s responsibility, but must be supervised and coordinated by an adult. Being the primary caretaker for a dog is not a job that can be left to the children.

A dog will pick the leader of the pack from the get go (read – in a couple of days in a new home), others - especially children - are "pack buddies". Do not let your dog think that! She/he will start moving up the pack ladder by all means possible. Just let your dog know who's the boss, and that is Human – no matter – an adult or a child. It is your responsibility as an adult to teach your dog to never harm a child, even if a 3 year old kid is dragging the dog by the tail! Yes, yes, poor dog! But small kids are small kids, and there is nothing you can do about it. The dog should never show ANY sign of aggression towards children. It is punishable and unacceptable and your dog must know this rule.

As for the little kids, stop them from hurting the dog, and always explain the reason. They learn quickly too! Older children should be given a more strict comment.

We did a beautiful job on Leia - and I am very proud of this. When we got Leia, our daughter was a baby and our son was 4. Dogs grow much faster than kids, but Leia had never harmed my children in any way (believe me, she has angelic patience!) even by accident and she has much consideration for the children of our own, neighbors' children and any other little guests. The kids can pull food out of her mouth and she won't even glance at them.   

You should be certain that your busy life leaves time for an active Golden Retriever before you purchase or adopt one. Most Goldens are wonderful with children; however, they are large dogs and can knock a child down easily, so until you know your dog's behavior patterns, be careful. Accidents happen.

Temperamentally, there is little difference between the sexes in Goldens. Neither sex is harder to housetrain, and both are equally intelligent and affectionate. Both are excellent with children, and both make excellent companions. Problems of aggressiveness, which males of other breeds may exhibit, should not occur in the Golden. Sex-related behavior such as mounting and marking may be exhibited by some male Goldens, particularly if other males are present or if the male has been used for breeding. Neutering a male before a year of age will not only help to alleviate these problems, but will also eliminate the risk of testicular cancer.